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Liver of Sulfur: How To Oxidize Your Jewelry

3/20/2015

32 Comments

 
On January 17, 2014

Do not fear the Liver of Sulfur.

I repeat: do not fear the Liver of Sulfur!

Oxidization is a science experiment for metal addicts and can prove entertaining, challenging and inspiring all wrapped up in the guise of jewelry fun, creating an antique look to modern art jewelry.

And you know what? It’s easy to fix if you don’t like it, so the only thing left to do is enjoy yourself and prepare to take your jewelry or metal work to a defining new level with a product both easy to master and essential for the antique look popular in the metal work and jewelry worlds.

Settle in and enjoy!

Materials Needed

  • A small glass container. I recommend a good Pyrex dish with a corresponding lid.  Though plastic containers, such as Tupperware, are widely considered acceptable, I find glass a little more resilient. A container with the ability to hold at least one cup of water is more than sufficient for most jewelry projects. Designate this dish for use with Liver of Sulfur only.
  • Gloves & well-ventilated work space. Liver of Sulfur is a skin irritant and can burn, so care should be taken to protect exposed areas of the body. The fumes are considered toxic so wear a disposable mask or use in a well-ventilated work space. For most small projects, a fan or open window with good airflow is perfectly fine, as long as you avoid direct exposure to fumes. Open window: good. Leaning directly over a steaming bowl of Liver of Sulfur: bad.
  • Disposable plastic spoons. Items should be placed into, and taken from, the Liver of Sulfur solution only with designated tools, such as tongs or disposable plastic spoons.
  • Liver of Sulfur Gel. Though Liver of Sulfur is also available in rock form, the gel is easier to use, longer lasting and with a smell slightly less odious. Since I am a creature of convenience and am apt to chose the product both easy and effective, the gel wins hands down.
  • A second bowl for a neutralizing bath. This bowl doesn’t have to be glass, however, due to the toxic nature of Liver of Sulfur, should still be designated for use with this product or process only.
  • A third bowl of any variety.
  • Fine Steel Wool Pads.
  • Dish-washing liquid.
  • Baking Soda.
  • Toothbrush.
  • Water.



Let’s Get Started

First begin by preparing a neutralizing bath for pieces dipped in the Liver of Sulfur solution. This will prevent the oxidizing process from continuing once the piece has reached the desired color. In the second bowl, pour a cup of lukewarm water. Into the water, stir two tablespoons of baking soda, until dissolved, and set aside.

Next, it is important to clean your jewelry items before oxidizing. Oils from the skin can lay a film over metal to which the Liver of Sulfur solution cannot adhere, causing uneven discoloration.  To prevent this, add a few drops of dish-washing liquid to a third bowl, fill with hot water and swish the jewelry many times. Rinse beneath a tap as the water turns from lukewarm to hot. Wearing gloves during this process will help prevent new prints from marking the jewelry once clean.

Note: Using hot tap water during this process helps warm delicate stones gradually, which are otherwise susceptible to sudden temperature changes. However, with that said, I caution against using hot water on very delicate stones such as opals.

Now it’s time to oxidize! In the primary glass bowl, pour one cup of hot water. This water should be steaming, but pre-boil. I find water through a clean coffee pot is the perfect temperature for oxidizing. In lieu of a coffee pot, microwave the water for one minute. Dip the tip of a disposable plastic spoon into your Liver of Sulfur gel to collect a few drops. It has a thick consistency and a sufficient amount of gel will stick to the spoon tip without the need to scoop. If your gel comes in a container that administers the product in drops, use two or three drops to start. This may be added to as necessary. Stir the gel into the water until it turns a vibrant yellow, but still transparent. If the water is pale, add another drop. Since the Liver of Sulfur solution works best in hot water, do not wait once the solution is prepared. Using the spoon with which the solution was stirred, add the jewelry items. If the water is hot enough, the metal should immediately begin to turn dark. The metal will oxidize in stages, often presenting themselves in colors: usually green, brown, blue then black. The metals may be removed at any time during this process if it has reached the desired color, though I recommend black for optimal results.

Once your jewelry or metal items have reached the desired color, use the previously mentioned spoon to remove the item from the solution. Drop the jewelry or metal items gently into the neutralizing bath, and let sit for a few minutes.

Remove your jewelry or metal items from the neutralizing bath. At this point, they are safe to handle without gloves or spoon.

Turn the tap on lukewarm and rinse your jewelry or metal items. While the water runs, begin to scrub the metal with a fine steel wool pad (readily available at hardware stores), careful of any delicate stones.  By scrubbing with a steel wool pad, the oxidization is removed from raised surfaces, which are then emphasized by the oxidization left in the crevices. This is a time-consuming process, due to the special attention needed on cracks, crevices or folds of heavily woven or worked metal jewelry. Fine steel wool will often leave fibers imbedded in these crevices, which can easily be removed by gently brushing the piece with a soft-bristle toothbrush dedicated for jewelry or metal work.

Pat the piece dry as thoroughly possible, and allow to air dry completely before storing.

And that’s it. The steps seem plentiful and sometimes complicated, but once you organize your own system, the entire process can move along in a handful of minutes.

You can dispose of the neutralizing bath and soapy wash water down a sink drain, but the Liver of Sulfur solution needs more care in its disposal. Because of its toxic nature, this solution should not be disposed of down a drain, as it can eat away at plumbing. If you have a dedicated work space, place a lid over the solution and allow to sit for up to three days, until the solution is clear. you will notice a white film gather on the bottom of the bowl. Once the water is clear, it has neutralized naturally and is now safe to dispose down any drain with running water. If you do not have a dedicated work space and need to dispose of the solution quickly, add a large amount of baking soda directly to the solution. The baking soda will begin to fizz. Once the fizzing stops, the solution is then safe to dispose, though I still recommend waiting at least an hour before disposal.

Though the solution can be reused (usually within a 24 hour period), I have had very limited success with it working quickly and oxidizing evenly beyond its initial use, so I suggest gathering jewelry or metal projects through the week, oxidizing at once, and then disposing the solution afterwards.

Uh Oh!

Now let’s say you just dipped your piece, scrubbed with the steel wool, and are horrified by the results!  Never fear, the oxidization can be removed. That’s right. It doesn’t have to be permanent.

Materials Needed

  • Tinfoil.
  • Baking Soda.
  • Glass or plastic bowl.
First, run your piece beneath a tap, while the water turns from cold to hot. This gradual increase in temperature will help prevent damage to delicate stones. However, with that said, (and as stated above) I do not suggest using this method on stones such as opals, which have been known to crack as a result of extreme temperatures.

Next, line a glass or plastic bowl with tin foil (shiny side up). If using plastic, please be sure the container or bowl can accommodate boiling water.

Lay your piece inside the bowl, pour boiling water on top (enough to cover) and sprinkle with baking soda. The baking soda should bubble and the tarnish should fall to the tinfoil.

Remove the piece and allow it to cool natural, then rinse beneath lukewarm water. Pat dry and allow to air dry completely before storing.

Pretty easy, right?

Wondering what you were so worried about, right?


Liver of Sulfur is a great way to add antique appeal to modern work. Have fun experimenting with various degrees of oxidization to see what best compliments your style. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask them below. If I don’t know the answer, I’ll do my best to find it for you.

Happy weaving, everyone!
Nicole

32 Comments
Steph
12/24/2015 12:48:47 pm

Which types of metals can be oxidized? And of them, which would you recommend? Thanks in advance & Happy Holidays!

Reply
Nicole Hanna
12/24/2015 03:31:38 pm

Gold-filled and brass will not oxidize, and neither will anything plated or marked as tarnish-resistant. But raw copper, bronze, silver and silver-filled products will oxidize.

Reply
Steph
12/24/2015 04:01:03 pm

Thanks for your fast reply! What about platinum, palladium & 10k,14k, 24k gold (& white gold)?

Happy Holidays!!

Nicole Hanna
12/24/2015 05:02:53 pm

Gold will not oxidize at all. But I have no experience with platinum or palladium so can't remark on those. Stainless steel also will not oxidize.

Reply
Steph
12/24/2015 07:55:17 pm

How about Tungsten, Titanium & Aluminum?

Amanda
2/17/2016 02:07:05 pm

Reply
Amanda
2/17/2016 02:07:58 pm

What stones are safe to dip in the LOS and which should be avoided?

Reply
Nicole Hanna
2/17/2016 03:05:30 pm

Soft stones should be avoided, like turquoise or howlite. The heat from the patina can ruin opals. Pearls are sometimes effected. When in doubt, the solution can be applied with a paint brush around the stones. It's a little more time consuming but will protect your materials.

Reply
Steph
2/17/2016 09:43:30 pm

I'm so grateful to have found this blog!! That's some really helpful info. Especially about the Opals. Any thoughts on the other metals: Tungsten, Titanium & Aluminum? Thanks again!! ~:)

Reply
Nicole Hanna
2/17/2016 10:21:03 pm

Beyond copper, silver and bronze, I've not had any personal experience with any other metals, so couldn't say what the results would be with any certainty.

Reply
meghan
5/12/2016 06:32:18 pm

I'm not a science person, nor have I tried oxidizing platinum, but my engagement ring was platinum, and I don't think that platinum oxidizes. I think it's a non reactive metal. I wore it while using cleaning products. I wore it while doing dishes. I wore it all the time and never ever, even in the little nooks and crannies did I ever see even a hint of discoloration. The silver wedding ring saw hints of tarnish, but the engagement ring never changed at all.

Evan
9/18/2016 11:17:08 am

Hi Nicole,

I have a white Gold wedding band that has a strip of hammered bronze all the way around in the middle. Right now the bronze is a yellow or gold color, but I would like to speed up the aging process and try to get it to more of a darker gold or even brown. If I use the liver of sulphur method, do you know if it will effect the white gold at all? Thanks!

Evan

Reply
Nicole Hanna
9/18/2016 11:26:15 am

Normally, gold will not patina. White gold is gold mixed with either nickle or palladium to achieve the color, and I'm not sure how this might effect the oxidizing process. I'm sorry I couldn't be of more help. I might personally try to paint the patina on only the bronze, but you may not want to risk it.

Reply
Guy Cranston
12/17/2016 06:06:48 pm

HI,
I want to blacken 4' long sections of 16 gauge copper wire to be used in sculpture. Most of my pieces will use 100+ strands. Was thinking of making a vessel out of PVC pipe cut lengthwise and capped at each end to minimize the amt of LOS solution required. I would then blacken say 25 at a time. Good idea yes no.

Reply
Nicole Hanna
12/18/2016 04:04:20 am

Personally I would prefer to paint the oxidizing solution on after it's made, verses dipping the wire prior to completion. It can be quite messy starting off with oxidized wire. But I've honestly never worked on anything on that scale so am afraid I'm not quite qualified to advise, other than to warn about the mess. Good luck!

Reply
Lisa
1/16/2017 02:05:25 pm

Hi, I'm just wondering about after your piece is oxidized. Do I need to put a dealer on it? Will it oxidize more if I don't use a sealer?

Reply
Nicole Hanna
1/16/2017 03:32:18 pm

Yes, the wire will continue to oxidize over time so copper does require continual care, even when a sealant like Renaissance Wax is used, which will wear off over time.

Reply
Connie Cassidy
2/16/2017 12:44:59 pm

Hi Nicole,
This blog is great -- and would have been smart of me (or, rather, my hubby !) to look at B4 he started dropping things into a BLACK filled container of LOS @J@ Stuff became black in a second, as you can imagine.

Asking him NOT to use "food containers" went in one ear out the other -- so, to the discount store to find some Pyrex replacements. :-D

QUESTION: Using copper, what would we put on it to "seal it" once it's at the color we like?

Thank you, Miss Nicole !!!
PEACE -- Connie

Reply
Nicole Hanna
2/16/2017 04:44:39 pm

I don't really use sealants, since none of them are permanent, so I'm afraid I can't be of much help there. I know lots of folks recommend Protecta Clear or Renaissance Wax but all such products would have to be reapplied every so often depending on the level of wear.

Reply
Sarah
3/2/2017 11:51:17 am

Hello! Thanks for the tips on here. I am wanting to oxidize a metal and fabric belt/sash that goes with my wedding dress, because the sample at the store I liked was oxidized/darker and the new one I received is very light. The fabric is a sheer ivory color. It will not be possible to dip the metallic part in without the fabric, as the metal portions are sewn directly onto the ribbon. Do you think the sulfur will dye the ivory fabric of the ribbon? I am scared to try it and ruin it. Thanks in advance for any advice you could provide!

Reply
Nicole Hanna
3/2/2017 02:29:03 pm

I'm fairly certain it would ruin the fabric. You could try painting the solution on with a paintbrush, but that is a much more time consuming process, especially depending on the metal. And even then you would have to be super careful not to get any on the fabric, as I'm sure it will dye it. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Reply
Sarah
3/2/2017 04:16:29 pm

No, the input is helpful. The last thing I want to do is ruin it. Thanks so much for the response!

Nancy Wolinski
3/9/2017 04:30:48 pm

Hi Nicole,
I would like to dip a piece of jewelry that I have, rather than paint on the patina, because it goes on more evenly. However, there are elements in the piece that I don't want to get dark. Is there something I could paint over them to protect them from the patina, something that would come off easily without disturbing the oxidation?
Many thanks for your time!
Nancy

Reply
Shanna Graham
3/23/2017 06:51:56 am

Nancy, I've kept things from oxidizing by coating them with clear nail polish before dipping into LoS. A little nail polish remover, and it's all clean after. I would not do that to a stone, but if there are metal elements you want to protect, it works brilliantly.

Reply
Brenda Leister
9/23/2017 06:36:38 am

Can you use live of sulfur on Aluminim?

Reply
Heather
5/22/2018 05:46:08 am

I had an opal ring with a patina I adored resized by a jewler, with a request to redo the patina. They used LoS, but then polished the piece, will it regain its patina?

Reply
NIckapr198
12/5/2020 02:52:16 am

i made a silver daisy cocktail ring and want to color the leaves green what can i use in lure of enamel paint

Reply
Barbara Orms
2/2/2021 11:06:19 am

Nicole, how do you oxidize (or age) brass?

Reply
lindsay anderson
5/12/2022 06:44:02 pm

Hello! I’m using bare copper wire and I’ve mix the solution with very warm water and I put the copper in. it’s been in for maybe three minutes and there’s no change at all do you know why this would happen?

Thank you

Reply
Nicole T Hanna link
5/13/2022 03:08:34 pm

Hi Lindsay

The water should be steaming, but not boiling, otherwise it could take quite a long time to see a change. If, after 30 minutes, even in lukewarm water, you don't see a change, chances are your wire is coated to be non-tarnish or tarnish-resistant.

Reply
kiley
6/1/2022 06:01:15 pm

thanks for this! I am curious to know if I am making bronze wire jewelry do I need to coat it with something to prevent the oxidation from rubbing off? thanks!

Reply
Nicole Hanna link
6/1/2022 06:17:11 pm

Hi Kiley! There's no need to coat any wire with anything, once oxidized, unless you want to prevent it from oxidizing further. Most metals (though bronze is much MUCh more slow to oxidize that some) will continue to oxidize and get dark, so you can coat it with Renaissance Wax or ProtectaClear to prevent this. However, these methods do wear off and would require additional coatings later on. Because of this, I generally never coat anything, and just provide some information on keep jewelry clean.

Reply

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